Today is day 110. We are all but packed for our departure tomorrow from Rome airport. If it wasn’t for Hamish growing out of most of his clothes, it would be hard to believe we have been away for nearly 4 months. We have spent a fairly low key week here in Bolsena, but it’s the Italian way.

Our plan to travel a bit off the beaten track has once again paid off, as Bolsena is a hidden gem. Yesterday we explored the mostly still unexcavated archaeological site of the city of Volsinii. Volsinii (264 BC) is not quite as ancient (or well known) as Pompeii and Paestum (600 BC), but it was a 500m walk from our front door, entry was free, no one tried to sell us a selfie stick and we were the only people there. It was incredible.

The day before we had booked the babysitter to watch Hamish for a few hours in the afternoon. The plan was Rod and I would have a leisurely, child free time exploring Bolsena and completing a few errands. As Italy shuts down from lunch, we left this till 3pm, thinking most things would re-open by then. Wrong. Post office only open till 1pm. Chemist re-opened at 4pm. Cafes closed. Gale force winds. It was not exactly the afternoon we had planned, but we made the most of it by visiting St Cristina’s church. Doesn’t sound enticing, but once we walked around looking at the art and wondering how they got it on the ceiling, we paid a few euro to enter the catacombs. Creepy, interesting, dark, stories of blood spewing forth from a chalice: religion has something for everyone.

There is some time to fill in during the afternoon, so we think it would be ideal to get Hamish in for a haircut. He thinks otherwise. After protracted negotiations, we wend our way down the hill and find a hairdresser just off the main square of the village. (Turns out there is also a barber in the next laneway to ours – about 60 metres away.) The shop is small and overflowing with garrulous Italian women, some of whom cut hair, parents and kids waiting to get their hair cut. Rod walks a few laps of the laneways whilst the job is done – there is no room to swing a cat. Italians are very stylish, even when they are just popping into the grocery store. It is my opinion, they are the most fashionable, well dressed people in Europe. Hamish now has a haircut, partly undercut, but with still the blunt bowl cut he received in Prague. Not sure if he is sporting an Italian boys haircut or if something has been lost in translation. Still, he is cute and this is working in his favour. Afterwards, Hamish is rewarded (he was most cooperative, even though he hates haircuts) with a cone of lemon/chocolate gelati from a multi-award winning (the trophies were enormous!) local producer.

Our awesome babysitter was more than happy to be booked for a few more hours last night as Rod and I went out for dinner. It’s off season here and many restaurants close down, or are only open on the weekends. We didn’t really discover the extent of this until we walked into town last night and saw the place we had picked for dinner was shut. We found a restaurant open in the large hotel in town and for the first hour, we were the only guests. We suspect it was the owners elderly father sitting in the bar lounge watching Italian game shows, whilst perhaps it was her Mother cooking our delicious meals. New taste sensation, cheese dipped in honey. We shared anti-pasto (cold meats and cheese) and then I had the most amazing mushroom gnocchi. Somehow Rod was able to order off the menu and had lamb chops with salad, also incredible.

For our final day in Bolsena, we all went out for lunch to a restaurant on the Lake (only open for lunches) and are about to order take away pizza for dinner. Hamish’s cough has continued to hang around and he has managed to pass it onto me, so I am feeling pretty shabby and not looking forward to 20 hours of flying. Still, it’s just one day. We have given many of Hamish’s clothes to the charity bins in town; as I already said, he has outgrown some and most of the others won’t fit by time our winter comes around again.

The end of a holiday is always bitter sweet. Looking forward to getting Hamish organised for school and Jess settled into Uni, but of course, sorry this remarkable trip is coming to an end and we have to go back to work. Hope you have enjoyed reading about our travels. There will still be a few more blogs, so watch this space.

Last comment from Hamish: I’m flying back home and I am going to see my sister Jess. And it’s going to be very exciting!