Strasbourg & Dusseldorf

December 28, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

Tonight we are packed and ready for our flight to Thailand which departs at 230pm from Düsseldorf Flughafen. Sadly, we say goodbye to Europe – what a fantastic time we have had since we arrived in Istanbul 3 months and 1 week ago. We are now very much looking forward to the last phase of our journey, which includes 8 days in Phuket, 8 days in Krabi and 6 days in KL. We will fly home from KL on Wednesday January 22 and arrive into Melbourne early morning on Thursday January 23.

The lead up to Christmas in Strasbourg saw us exploring a huge military museum called MM Park. The museum houses an impressive collection of large and small arms, ammunition, trucks, tanks, other motorised troop carrying vehicles and uniforms. There’s even the top part of a U Boat, an actual Naval vessel and a couple of planes! In my opinion, the stand out feature at this museum is the collections are from many countries: US, Bulgarian, French, German, Italian, Russian, English and even Canadian. The displays are full sized – rooms with row after row of vehicles. Rod and I figured what else do you do with all the hardware armed forces leave behind once the war was over. A large part of the museum was dedicated to the 120 French civilian men and women who were trained to act as spies for the allied forces under a plan called Operation Sussex. So brave.

On the drive to the MM Park, I said to Rod, “What sort of weirdos go to a war museum 2 days before Christmas” We laughed, turns out quite a few actually! Afterwards, we balanced this activity with a trip to the Schaal Chocolate Factory – a family run company which has been operating in various forms since 1871. We learned their raw products are sourced from Ecuador and France and that it’s a 6 year apprenticeship to be a chocolatier! The museum smelled absolutely divine and for 3 people who hadn’t had lunch, those free samples were a welcome delight. At different points, both Rod and Hamish said to me, “You can have as many free samples as you like – no one checks!”

Christmas Eve we booked an Escape Room experience. Years ago, we completed a board game version of this, where you need to solve puzzles and clues to ‘escape’ or win I guess, but we’d never actually done this at a dedicated place. We made our way there via tram and had a bit of lunch in a park as we were a bit too early. Celia our host met us at the front door and stepped us through how it would all work and that there would be multiple puzzles to solve concurrently and to use each other’s skills as effectively as we could. I am sure deep down, we thought we would beat this challenge – no one actually said this, but I could tell – we approached it with confidence.

We were given an item each and put on a lab coat. Our scenario was to collect specimens in a lab before a virus mutates – kind of zombie apocalypse. The first room was the entrance to the lab. The floor and walls were blood smeared and the room was lit with a yellow light – a proper immersive experience! Boy it was hard. Took us 10 minutes to get into the actual lab! Hamish’s idea to look through a bin was correct where we found a key, which unlocked a cabinet which housed a puzzle. We had to solve the puzzle then key the code into the door. At one point I thought, we’re not even going to get into the lab!

Once in the lab there were multiple puzzles to solve. Took us ages – at certain points, Celia prompted us which helped. Hamish worked out a code on the computer, Rod worked out a code with books and I just kind of organised everyone. There was a ‘dead’ scientist in a locked cell – we had to get a key from his hand to open the cell to find other clues (and a hidden passage). Bravely Hamish and I sent Rod into this enclosed space whilst we worked on something else. At one point, there is loud banging on one of the doors: Rod and Hamish: “Should we open it?” Me: “No way! Haven’t you seen zombie movies? We open for no one!” It was just a ploy to rattle us and it worked! Long story short, we ended up finding 4 of the 6 or 7 vials but ran out of time. Celia was nice and told us we did better than most people – the room has a 50% success rate, so it’s tough. Thoroughly recommend getting a group of your friends together giving this a go – lots of fun.

Once back outside we debriefed about the adventure all the way to the Christmas market. It was surprisingly not too busy, but we did note a large presence of heavily armed police. Certainly something we’re not used to in Australia, but the Christmas Markets have been targeted over the years, so it’s not unusual for this time of year. We got one last gluwein and a pretzel for Hamish, walked around and caught the tram home.

Christmas Day was crisp and sunny – perfect. This is our 3rd European Christmas and each has been blue skies and sunshine. No complaints from us! We had a pre-lunch walk to the canal and a longer afternoon walk to the next village and home along the canal. It’s a very picturesque part of the world and we talked about how good it would be to have bikes here!

Boxing Day we drove to Düsseldorf where we have been catching up with Mattia and his beautiful family: Inna and Baby Marco. Rod and I agreed this was the perfect way to end our trip to Europe. It is 9 years since we stayed with Mattia’s parents and it was certainly lovely to spend time with them again. Marco took to the Bluey presents we gave him – so we have started something there! Last night we had a bit too much fun, so we have been a little dusty today…Tonight the three of us walked back to Mattia’s to have dinner and to say our goodbyes. We hope to see them in Australia in the next few years for a visit.

The Electric Car by Rod

The electric hire car has certainly added another layer of stress to our journey. Having to find charging stations, figure out how to use them (they all seem a bit different, if indeed they work at all), wonder how and how much we are paying for their use and waiting for the car to charge have all been annoying.

When we arrived in Düsseldorf there was an extra challenge; finding a place to park the car. This is notoriously difficult in Düsseldorf. I manage to find a small spot a couple of blocks from our apartment, which appears to be a pay for service spot, rather than a resident’s permit only space. Fortunately, it’s Boxing Day, so I will not need to pay until tomorrow morning. In the meantime we catch up with Mattia, who tells us we can bring the car over the next day and park in his apartment car park, since neighbours are away. What a relief! We have a couple of hours of paid parking in the morning to get through when Belinda has the brilliant idea of moving the car to a charging station for that time and top up the battery at the same time! I check several of the local stations, but you need to supply your own cable. I check the car, but cannot find a cable! Thwarted again.

There has also been an ongoing saga with the rental company. A few days ago I tried to connect at a charging station. It would not accept the Hertz-supplied fob/tag. So I foolishly tried to use my credit card. Still no luck. An hour later I check my bank account and find that the company has taken $66 out of my bank account! I contact Hertz, not thinking they could actually do anything, but not knowing who else to call? They have since sent many emails indicating they do not really know what I am talking about. Hopefully we can sort this out when we return the car tomorrow, but it will no doubt be confusing.

The electric car has been very nice to drive but it is a totally inappropriate vehicle for a journey such as ours.

5 Countries – 36 hours

December 22, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

Wednesday morning we checked out of our apartment in Munich and headed to the south of Ulm, where we were meeting two friends from our very first trip – Klaus & Esther. Back when Hamish was 5, we stayed with them for a few days in Heidenheim and have kept in touch on and off since.

They had suggested a meeting place which was just off the freeway, so it was easy for us to find. An added bonus here was that there were lots of EV chargers, so Rod was able to plug the car in whilst we had lunch (more on the car later). The county borders of Bayern Munich and Baden-Württemberg cut the restaurant in half – this is quite a novelty and one Esther & Klaus are keen to show us.

After a lovely lunch and catching up, we said our goodbyes and headed to the final micronation of the trip: Liechtenstein. This country has been on Hamish’s radar for a few years, so Rod and I were happy to indulge him! I bet you wish you had a Hamish – we never would have included Liechtenstein on our itinerary if not for him. The views were gorgeous: snowy mountain tops, winding roads and green hills – we followed the Rhine into Liechtenstein, then turned left and wound our way up to Triesenberg (above the snow line) where we were staying the night. Prices here were astronomical – but seriously, after 3 months, who’s even counting?

Our accommodation was a well heated hotel room with no fridge for Rod’s final medication – but the staff happily popped his injection in their fridge and the ice packs in their freezer. We then had to ask them for an adaptor for our electricals as Liechtenstein has a 2 narrow pin system, quite different to the rest of Europe. The room was so well heated we slept with the balcony door and a couple of windows open! Have we heard of climate change? It’s crazy how overheated most of our accommodations have been. Also, in Liechtenstein you are charged in Swiss Francs and the exchange rate is similar to the British pound.

Once we were sorted with medications, chargers and car parking, we headed outside for a bit of a walk around. The stand out features of Triesenberg were: 2 main roads, a church, a store, and what looked like an aged care facility. The views are mostly of the Swiss Alps and are as you can imagine, incredible.

We had a two course meal (because that was the meal choice of the day in the restaurant) and then headed back to our room to wait until midnight where we were able to watch Dad graduate from Uni via LiveStream. Exciting.

Hamish’s favourite thing when travelling is a breakfast buffet and the little hotel did not let him down: boiled eggs, croissant, bread roll, cold meats and cheese, honey, Nutella, juice and a hot chocolate. I said to Rod, Hamish gets his money worth. He leaves nothing behind on his plate and will try everything!

We left the hotel and pointed the car in the direction of our current stop: Strasbourg. Side note: the Receptionist/Cook/Waiter told me the cost for the dinner the night before was “false” so she took it off the bill – I am still waiting for them to reconcile this and charge me an extra $150! We are still getting used to the EV so needed to work out when, where and how to stop and charge the car. The charging capability of each charging station varies: slow, medium and fast. So we found a fast charging station, but it still took about 45 mins to charge (adding about 60% of charge to the battery). Hamish and I stayed in the car and played games on our devices whilst Rod pottered about outside, taking photos, getting snacks, going to the bathroom – anything to pass the time. The car is great, but for first time EV drivers, driving in a different continent, trying to find charging stations (that actually work) is the biggest stitch up. We will be sending a strongly worded letter to the car rental company once we leave Düsseldorf Sunday.

Our trip to Strasbourg took us through Switzerland which wasn’t at all unpleasant. We found our apartment easily – it is the top floor of a 3 story house in the suburb of Eckbolsheim, about 6km from the city centre. Since arrival we have shopped, charged the car (I think Rod might write about this in the next blog), caught a tram into the city, done some sightseeing, walked around the neighbourhood and shopped a bit more for Christmas.

Many of the homes are in the traditional Alsace style, with pitched rooves and timber panels – they are just gorgeous. With quite a bit of rain around, we’re not expecting a white Christmas, so we’re glad we have experienced a tiny bit of snow already. The news from Germany’s Christmas Market tragedy provoked my hyper-vigilance yesterday. I think our best Christmas Market days were done back in Vienna and Bratislava.

I’ll leave you with a Fun Fact. Wednesday and Thursday we travelled through 5 countries: Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and France. The total distance of these trips: 660km give or take. At home, if we travelled 660km from Wangaratta we’d be in places like: Sydney or Renmark or Dubbo!

And one more: Rod’s top speed on the autobahn Wednesday was 152km/hr – Hamish said, “Go Dad!”

Munich

December 17, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

Be warned: this is a long blog, grab a cool drink!

Our week in Munich has come to an end. Rod and I are currently sitting on our bed (Hamish is on his, upstairs) resting after a HUGE serve of schnitzel and pommes (chips) for lunch. Rod and I both said we could have shared one between us – Hamish suggested he didn’t need to share his schnitzel and in fact, polished off a big portion of my chips. The kid is unstoppable! We are about to go to the Transport Museum, mostly because it’s across the street from our apartment. Read on for a recap of our week!

Friday – Walking tour, Christmas market and Hofbrauhaus

Our cold weather gear had been serving us well; that was until our walking tour Friday morning. It was -1 degree and breezy whilst we waited in Marienplatz for our tour to begin. Hamish and I did laps of the Christmas market looking for hot chocolate, but alas, there were only alcoholic beverages (and at 10:30 am I felt this was a little too early even for us!). Not cool Munich – I bought some slivered almonds coated in chocolate and between the 3 of us they lasted about a minute! We joined a large group of English-speaking people and were shown some of the sites of Munich.

It started with the famous Glockenspiel in the town square of Marienplatz. The figures reenact two pivotal moments in Munich’s history: a battle victory and a wedding, with a 16 day party afterwards…or so the story goes. It was a cute little thing to see; I noticed a lady from another tour group filming the whole thing (over 10 minutes worth!). I said to Rod, imagine getting back home and forcing someone to watch your 10 minute video of some life sized puppets way up high on a clock tower that you can barely see. Still, who are we to judge someone else’s idea of excellent cinematography?

We then walked under the tower into the square beneath the Rathaus (Government building). I am sure those workers love listening to that Glockenspiel ring for 10 minutes twice a day! Our guide told us about some of the architecture, the spire and something about some of the statues situated on the building. At this point I am regretting not wearing my woollen socks. I also scour the small market stalls for hot drinks.

Our next stop is the very large and very ornate Munich Cathedral. To my untrained eye, the Rathaus looked like a Cathedral and the Cathedral looked like a Government building! Inside, the ceilings are incredible and the stained glass windows very impressive. Our guide tells us a folk story about the devil’s footprint on one of the tiles and if your foot fits you are destined to become mad for the rest of your life. Rod of course had to try his foot in this tile and of course it fit. I can confirm no change in his mental status since. Lucky it’s a folk tale! I hear one of the British girls say to her friend “I think I have overestimated the warmth of my tights today…” I don’t think it mattered how many layers you wore that day, stopping every 5 minutes for a 15 minute story was never going to warm you up. The guide can see we are struggling with the temperatures, so her next destination is in what feels like an outdoor shopping mall. To be fair, it’s out of the freezing wind, though I hear the girls from the UK state how much warmer it was in the cathedral.

Our next destination takes us to the ‘Field Marshall’s Hall’ a public place where in 1933 the socialist party, lead by Hitler, attempted a coup. Four police were killed in the uprising and the plaque below commemorates them. I leave the group to look around, get a couple of photos and keep moving. Despite my usually very warm gloves, my fingers are frozen. Hamish is a gentleman and gives me his gloves, or holds my hands when we stop so I can try and warm them up. Not to throw shade on Rod, he hugs me whenever he can too! Hamish says, “Good news – only 40 minutes to go Mum” I swear this will be our last walking tour.

We walk to the last destination which is the Hofbrauhaus – the most famous in Munich (probably the world) where Hitler held his meetings prior to (and after) the uprising. We walk up the stairs to a foyer that is perfectly heated. Again hard for Rod and I to believe Hitler had walked up those stairs and held meetings in this part of the beer hall – and we’re standing there 90 years later!

Thankfully the tour is over and we head into the brew house for lunch. I order the big beer which is 1 Litre! I need two hands to lift it. We share a platter and some sausages, then we buy a BIG pretzel – because we haven’t flown all this way to have regrets. The beer hall has a resident band playing ‘oom-pah-pah’ tunes, which provides a great atmosphere. Our tram trip home seems to take forever and Rod and I are pleased the apartment has toilets on the ground floor; cold + lots of beer puts strain on the old bladder!

For the record, no beer was consumed by Hamish.

Saturday – Deutsches Museum (by Rod)

The Deutsches Museum is the largest Science/Technology museum in Europe, so it’s on our agenda – it can’t all be beer and pretzels! I have downloaded the app and a scroll through the menu suggests we should start with the “extended highlights” tour of the museum. This will include visits to the best exhibits in most of the popular sections of the museum. It tells me to start by visiting “Theo” in the Robotics sections. As I write this (4 days later) I have not yet found Theo, or any of his other Robotics mates. Instead, we land in the “Light” section. Lots of hands-on and written material about the (still confusing) particle vs wave models of light. I keep an eye out for Schrodinger’s cat, to no avail – perhaps he is hanging out with Theo in Robotics.

We spend a lot of time in the modern and historical flight sections. Fantastic displays of actual sections of aircraft, or even whole aircraft, as well as many models and a lot of fascinating information. You could really soak up a lot of detail in here. We try not to get bogged down, though, as Theo is probably dying to meet us. Moving on we encounter sections dealing with Music/instruments, Chemistry and Astronautics, which is just amazing. The place is huge but we eventually find the rooftop restaurant for a spot of lunch. Another bun-fight as we try to claim a table. It’s packed and one can only wonder how busy these places get in high season. Most places we have been on this trip have been crawling with tourists. Everyone seems to be traveling these days.

Sunday – Olympic Stadium (Rod and Hamish) – Dachau (Belinda)

When we arrived in Munich, I booked a tour to the local concentration camp Dachau. I had chosen not to visit Mauthausen whilst in Linz – after the Terror Museum in Budapest, I’d not the emotional strength for it. However, in order to remember and honour the people who had lost their lives in the Holocaust, it is a small sacrifice for me for one day. Rod and Hamish have planned their day and Rod will write about this below. We travelled into the city together and the boys dropped me off at the tour operators shop with a plan to meet back there at 3:30 pm that afternoon. Our tour groups were split in two – my group was about 15 people and our guide Jake (an amusing, sarcastic, former teacher and very well-liked American) led us to the hauptbahnhof. Dachau is a small town about 20km NW of Munich but is of course known for the camp and we used public transport to get there and back. Whilst on the platform, we all introduced ourselves (name, country of origin) and I discovered two Australian couples – one from SA and one from the NT. It was really nice talking to them throughout the day and hearing about their travels and their lives back in Australia. Jake collectively called us “Team Aus.”

Dachau is the oldest camp in Germany. It was set up in 1933 for ‘political prisoners’ (this could be anyone!). In the 30’s, the inmates were treated like prisoners, with days off, personal effects and letter writing allowed. This all changed when Germany invaded Poland and the Nazi’s ramped up work camps and death camps. Dachau was a work camp, a training site for the SS, was run by the SS and was the main camp of over 100 work camps in Germany. It was brutal and I don’t need to go into the details of how the inmates were treated – the mostly men, were literally worked to death. It wasn’t hard to imagine the harsh conditions as we stood on the parade ground in the cold with no protection from the strong winds. The camp was liberated by the US armed forces in 1945 and their accounts are well documented. Check out a movie called ‘Lee’ about a US fashion photographer who became a war correspondent – she photographed the Dachau liberation (I haven’t seen it, but have heard about it).

Hamish and I wave goodbye to Belinda and get on a tram (literally right outside the cafe door) towards the Munich (1972) Olympic Stadium. The tram deposits us a short walk away, through lovely gardens, from the stadium. It’s pretty chilly/breezy, but a bit sunny and not as cold as previous days. We get to the stadium to find most of it fenced off, but we eventually find the (only, barely noticeable) entrance. It only costs 6 Euros for the two of us to enter and we quickly find the toilet! We then slowly complete a lap of the stadium, through and over the terraces. You can’t get down to the track or into any of the internals, but it presents a fascinating view of the arena. It still looks quite modern, due to its interesting design. It is not a walled stadium, but is built into the landscape as a key part of the surrounding Olympic area. Along the way there are displays and a “video kiosk,” where we watch a rather odd 20 minutes of mixed footage from the games. There is minimal commentary, not even mentioning the efforts of Mark Spitz as he is shown swimming towards his 7 gold medals. The Jewish hostage saga is shown in part, but it is assumed the viewer knows what happened here.

After exiting the stadium we find we can walk across to and enter the swimming pool arena. The warmth is most appreciated. There is a crowd watching a water polo game to keep us amused and toasty for a bit before we push on. The whole Olympic complex is built into the surrounding parklands, complete with lakes, plazas, amphitheatres and the Olympic Tower.

We walk and tram our way back into town for a prearranged 3:30 meeting with Belinda. Now, dear reader, understand that I do not have internet here without free wi-fi. At about 3:45 there is no sign of our beloved, so I trek into the hauptbahnhof (free wi-fi) to check my messages. Sure enough, Belinda has been delayed. So we have another hour to kill, which then stretches to an hour and a half after checking for another message. After a couple of trips back and forth to Maccas and the labyrinth of shops at the hauptbahnhof for some shopping we head back to the rendezvous point, at one point passing an older lady who staggers from, presumably, too much Christmas cheer. We walk on and wait. I then, belatedly see another message, suggesting we meet at the dreaded hauptbahnhof! We hastily head back only to find Belinda giving triage/first aid to that same old lady, now suffering from a PFD. “There’s mum!” shouted Hamish as I blithely stride past. We had never really seen Belinda in action and she is amazing! Handling and calming the injured, talking with other passers-by/helpers who have other native tongues, helping with the hand-over to Paramedics and just calling the shots really. Well played Belinda!

Monday – Rental Car – Herrsching am Ammersee (Lake)

We have booked a rental car for the last part of the European trip and we walk/train/walk to the pickup point. It’s a relatively smooth process, (even though we don’t have passports as a form of ID) – Hamish and I go into the local Lidl to get some drinks and snacks for the car trip to the lake. When we return, Rod is sitting in the car getting acquainted with the new interior. We do a check of the vehicle for existing scratches/dents and discover it’s an electric car! What’s that about old dogs and new tricks? Something new for us to learn in the next couple of weeks.

We drive to a lovely lakeside area and walk around before getting some excellent Italian food for lunch in a restaurant way posher than we were expecting. Oh well! Hamish loves to test the water to see how cold it is – ‘very cold’ is his answer. No joke, we can see the Swiss Alps in the distance.

Tuesday – Tucherpark (or English Garden) – Schnitzels – Transport Museum

Rod has found a park on the other side of the city so we set our sights on this area. The weather is sunny and it’s nearly 10 degrees – wonderful! We walk around the lake and it reminds me of the Lake Benalla walk, except for the threatening signs warning of death if you ice skate, sled or play curling. They don’t muck about here with their public signage! We all decide we need a schnitzel for lunch as we’ve not really indulged in this local food. We have luck with the 3rd cafe we come across, which is outdoors and occupied by three men and two dogs. I order us all schnitzels – the young woman says she’ll let us know when they’re ready and we can come and get them from the counter. She literally yells at the top of her voice, something in German – we take that as our cue our food is ready. As Hamish says, “The schnitzels look big, but they’re full of air…” I’m not worried about the schnitzels, it’s the 1/2 kg of chips on the plate that has me worried!

What’s next?

Tomorrow we head for the last of our micronations, the one that started it all: Liechtenstein. We are staying one night (in a hotel costing 1/3 of our entire week in Munich!) then driving to Strasbourg to settle in for Christmas. After seeing the Swiss Alps in the distance yesterday, we are really looking forward to staying in this tiny country in the mountains. Good luck with the last of your Christmas shopping and those of your in Australia, keep cool! Ciao!

Oh and for the record? the transport museum is open twice a month, every second Sunday.

L_nz

December 12, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

We are currently on a train to Munich; my allocated seat is roomier than an exit row on an airline. These Europeans know how to do train travel. Australia could take a leaf from their ‘Trains’ book. If you’re wondering why the word Linz looks a bit weird in the title, it’s because much of the Christmas signage in Linz this week looks like L_nz

We arrived into Linz Hauptbahnhof Saturday early evening, after catching two trains: Budapest to Vienna – Vienna to Linz. We caught an Uber from our apartment (as the train station was quite a distance across town) with a non-scary Hungarian driver. After walking through a tunnel to god knows where, we backtracked and ended up in the “not awful, but not comfortable” train station. We boarded the train with what felt like thousands of others, some of whom were sitting in our allocated seats (always an awkward conversation) and settled in. Arriving back in Vienna was a relief in comparison to the Eastern European train stations we’ve encountered lately: the station smelled of vanilla and cinnamon, everything was clean, warm, organised and well signed. Once in Vienna we had an hour to get to the Westbahnhof (across town). We tried to engage one of the multitude of taxi’s parked in front of the station, but many of them were trying to negotiate in cash only. Cash is precious and not to be wasted on a taxi, so we just kept walking down the line until we found a taxi who would accept payment with a card. Our driver was an older lady whose official ID suggested she was about 17. Rod asked her how long it would take to get to the station. She took this as a challenge and flung us through peak hour traffic (one near miss with brakes fully engaged) to get to the station with plenty of time to spare.

The travel time from Vienna to Linz was a bit over 2 and 1/2 hours. We had planned to meet our host at 6pm at the apartment we had booked for the 4 nights, so again, hit up one of the many taxis outside the station. No question about cash/card until the driver dropped us off – cash only! With help from Hamish’s few euro coins, we managed to scrape together the 8 Euro. Not getting caught with this taxi scam again – Uber all the way. Our very kind host dropped Rod off at a market to grab a few breakfast supplies due to supermarkets being closed on Sundays. During the car ride, the host told Rod his daughter had been offered a scholarship in athletics in the US and the other daughter was, I can’t remember, about to solve world peace. I said, you should have told him Hamish knows all the countries in the world!

Our apartment was in walking distance to the main city centre this week so again, we have not bothered with public transport. Once unpacked, we found a sushi train restaurant for dinner. I have never had this eating experience before, but Hamish has. Rod ordered a dish from the menu, but Hamish and I were excited to try the many samples of hot, cold, sweet and savoury dishes on offer. For reference, the plates are about the size of a saucer, or a small side plates: Hamish had 16 plates I had 8. We had dishes such as: steamed rice, fried rice, prawn stir fry, pork ribs in plum sauce, honey chicken, sushi, sashimi and a mini muffin/cake. The beer I ordered was 500ml – you really have to commit to a beer here!

We’ve had a slow week in Linz. With 4 unallocated days on our schedule, we had to pick something between Budapest and Munich, so Linz felt like a good halfway point.

Sunday we visited a technology museum which was very hands on. There was a display where you could rearrange a dish cloth and a phone cable and the AI programme would make this into a painting. It was incredible!

Monday we caught a little tram to Postlingberg – the local mountain. Here it snowed for us! We looked at the church and walked around a bit, Hamish tried to hit Rod with a snow ball, but his aim was way off. Found a gorgeous little bird (female Black Bird) who patiently posed for me whilst I got a few photos. On the way home, the little tram had screens showing the news, Rod was trying to make out some of the news (in German) and telling me what was happening in the world. He says, “Oh, Judy Dench has died. She was 90” Turns out Judy didn’t die, she just had her 90th birthday.

Tuesday Hamish opted for a ‘day off’ – he says he hasn’t been sleeping well and we were happy to leave him in the warm confines of the apartment. He’s actually fallen asleep on the tram yesterday!

Rod and I headed for the castle, which wasn’t very interesting, then walked around a few churches one of which Anton Bruckner had been the choir master and the other he’d been the church organist. Hedging his bets? We had lunch and then spent at least an hour in the biggest sports store we’ve ever seen – it was the best! We now both have new runners – and they’re well priced in Europe, Rod’s Asics were 57 Euro and my Mizuno’s were 75 Euro (that’s $200 for two pair of good quality/brand runners!).

The train has just stopped in Salzburg and here the very long train splits. Our half goes to Munich and the other half goes somewhere else: “Please make sure you are in the correct carriage” The Police have just jumped on board. Rod (who is sitting with Hamish in front of me) has asked for our passports. I hand him his and Hamish’s – the Police are checking ID and asking loud questions like “When did you arrive in Europe?” and “Do you have a residents Visa?” and “Show me your ID” – Good God. We watch them come towards us – Rod has the passports open, but they merely glance is his direction and move though the carriage. Flashbacks to the time Rod nearly got arrested in Poland for not validating the tram ticket!

I’ll finish this blog in Munich in the next day or two and post it. We are in Munich for one week – we only have 18 days left of our trip in Europe before we fly to Thailand and Malaysia for our 3 week ‘holiday’. Accommodation in Munich was quite pricey, but I found a little apartment SE of the city centre (about a 20 minute ride to the touristy areas) for 95 Euro per night. The Lidl is next door, bus stop around one corner, metro around the other corner, bakery next to the Lidl – so what it lacks in sights, it makes up for in connectivity! Good I think, to get a glimpse into the daily life of people living in the suburbs – makes it real. Tomorrow we have a ‘free’ walking tour in the city ending at the most famous beer house here: the Hofbrauhaus! Exciting times ahead!

Update on the Police on the train: We made an unscheduled stop and I saw about 6 Police escort about 8 men of African appearance, off the train. We’re guessing no tickets, no visas, no ID and quite possibly all of the above.

And one more thing, whilst looking for things to discover in Linz, Rod found this review of a lookout over the powerplant. Best review ever.

Budapest

December 6, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ 2 Comments

It’s Friday December 6 and today we’re having a day off. We planned this earlier in the week when looking at the weather. Today was scheduled for sleet, it has in fact, just started snowing. This is exciting for us, but not for the workmen in our apartment block who have been doing some serious construction this week – jackhammering and angle grinding at 0830. Nice start to the day…

When searching for spots of interest this week, I happened across an article about a guerilla sculptor, Mihaly Kolodko, a Ukrainian citizen with Hungarian heritage, who has mini statues across this city. We used the guide as a way to discover the city of Budapest, whilst searching for the hidden statues. It’s been a fun (and frustrating at times!) way to keep us all engaged.

Monday – Liberty Square, Parliament, Margrit Bridge, St Stephen’s Basicila, Christmas Markets & Dohány St Synagogue.

We were greeted with crystal clear skies when we left the apartment Monday morning. Rod had spent considerable time reading about the (complicated) public transport ticketing system, but we decided to take advantage of the weather and walk. We headed in the general direction of the Parliament, but took a few detours along the way. We pass through the gardens of Liberty Square, with a few statues of American Presidents (George W and Reagan) and pass along the back of the Parliament. It is one hell of an impressive building. Walking towards Margrit Bridge, we come across a statue (there lots of monuments and statues in Budapest) dedicated to Nagy Imre. Rod and I are trying to decide if he was a good guy or not. Initially he was in the Communist party but then tried to establish Hungary’s independence from the Soviets, which of course didn’t end well for him. History has judged and deemed him worthy of reverence. Oh and he was the PM at one stage. It can be confusing here with the history, but one thing that isn’t confusing is the depth of the scars on Hungarians caused by war and communism.

We head along the Danube, which is blue today. We walk past the ‘Shoes on the Danube’ memorial to Jewish people lined up and shot by the Arrow Cross (Hungarian based, Nazi backed strong arm in Budapest in WW2). There’s loads of people taking photos, but I don’t feel like I can. Hamish doesn’t want to look and distracts himself by trying to get Rod to laugh. I hiss at them to “stop being idiots” and we leave. By this stage we’re all famished (and one of us is cranky…yes it’s me) and find an ‘Asian Fusion’ restaurant that looks Chinese but serves Thai food too.

St Stephen’s Basilica is just around the corner (it’s hard to miss) and as is tradition, Christmas markets. We get some vanilla almonds – they remind me of my Grandfather Johnson, he always had some sugar coated almonds on him! The bag costs a small fortune, but we delight in their sweet-salty taste as we saunter back home through the streets.

As mentioned earlier, our apartment is in District VII. Towards the end of WW2, Jews were forced into a ghetto in this district – so many people there were 14 per room. Our street, Dob utca (utca is street) was part of the ghetto, but not up the end we are staying in. The Dohany St Synagogue is the largest in Europe – it has a very grand facade – it bordered the ghetto in 1943. We walk to it on our way home (there’s also a mini statue there to find).

Once home, Rod and I head to the closest Lidl to get some groceries. It’s about 5pm and the little market is packed, the aisles are one person wide, the staff are scary (maybe it’s the accent) and we vow never to go back (although we do go back, we go back twice thinking it might be better at different times of the day. It’s not.). I am delighted to find excellent fruit – the double punnet of blueberries is gone after breakfast the next day! Hamish has a sore throat (again) so I’m trying to increase his vitamin uptake!

Tuesday – Varosliget Park, Vajdahunyad Castle, House of Terror

Hamish still has a sore throat, but not sore enough that he can’t inhale 2 bowls of cereal. I suggest we go for a short walk to find 3 mini statues which are in the streets parallel to ours. He thinks he can manage. After finding those, he says “we’re actually close to these ones too – why don’t we keep going?” So we set our sights on a large park to find some more mini statues. We find what I like to call the ‘Hungarian Stair Master’ which is kind of a look out built into either end of the Enthographic Museum. Hamish does not hesitate to walk up there so we follow. It is actually pretty cool and gives us a great view of the park and the surrounding streets. The park is huge and houses lots of different sporting fields, ice skating rink, thermal baths and dog park. We frustratingly don’t find one of the mini statues after walking around and around the park, so we stop for a hot drink and a sit down. The next mini statue is easy to find so we get our photo and walk home.

In Vienna, Rod and I were discussing which museums, if any, we were going to visit. After 10 weeks of travel, we have learned not all museums are created equally. Museums can be great. Museums can be dull. This cannot be said for the Museum of Terror, which Rod and I visited Tuesday afternoon. Only a few streets away, this museum is dedicated to the thousands of Hungarians who were imprisoned, killed and tortured in this building by the Nazi and Soviet Regimes from 1944 to 1991. It is four floors of hell.

Top floor (Arrow Cross Danube shootings, Hungarians being transported to labour camps, Jews transported to death camps, hospital massacres, Nazi’s blowing up the bridges in Budapest, Russians replacing Nazi’s).

Middle floors (war crimes trials, Gulag deportations, dictatorship, communism, Arrow Cross morphing into the secret police (AVH) , public arrests in the middle of the night).

Basement (torture cells, perpetrators, retaliation, emigration).

I have been to Auschwitz and I felt as drained as I did after that day.

Wednesday – Chain Bridge, Furnicular, Buda Castle, Funnel Cakes & Hot Chocolates

With a new found respect for Hungarians, we walked to the Danube and crossed the beautiful Chain Bridge (not at all looking like the pictures we’d seen of it yesterday in the museum). We caught the furnicular to Buda Castle. The ticket seller was a bit frightening (yelling at me when I didn’t understand what she said) and further when she yelled at a group of women who were delaying getting in the carriage: “Get in the car! Move! You are holding up everything! Get in the car!” See? Scary. We found our little statue and walked around the grounds of the castle admiring the view. It was actually pretty cold and miserable so I suggested we pull the pin, get warm food and drinks on our way home and settle in. Hamish said, “but those other statues are soooo close” So we persisted and found more of our statues before heading to the market for hot chocolate and funnel cake.

Thursday – Fisherman’s Bastion, Mr Bean’s Teddy statue, Ferris Wheel of Budapest.

The last of the statues we were keen to find was Mr Bean’s teddy, entitled ‘Brexit’ gosh he was hard to find! Crossing the Chain Bridge again, to find the Fisherman’s Bastion this time, we were glad of our warm gear with the temp about 3 degrees. We didn’t need the warm gear for long as we had to negotiate about 400 steps! But gee the views make it worthwhile. We hung around the Starbucks for a bit to use their toilets (you have to buy something, your receipt gets you into the toilet) and then headed back down, a different way, with less steps this time. The Ferris Wheel was a cutesy thing to do, but I realised, as we dangled hundreds of meters in the air, that I don’t actually like them.

Wrap Up

Our week here has been fab. We’ve walked and walked and walked – about 15km a day actually, so it’s good to have a down day. Rod had a hair cut. Hamish is still in his PJs. We’ve enjoyed watching the snow fall from our warm, comfortable apartment today. It’s quite a novelty for us. Tomorrow we head to Linz in Austria for a few days before a week in Munich.

Bratislava

December 2, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

It’s Monday evening December 2 (actually it’s only 5pm, but it feels much later) and I’m writing this blog from our apartment in Budapest, Hungary. We arrived late yesterday afternoon, after the 3 of us suffering from insomnia Sunday night and having to hang around Bratislava train station for an extra 30 mins due to our train being delayed. Once we were on the train, everything was smooth and we found the right tram to deliver us to our suburb (District 7) – it’s the Jewish Quarter (named from back in the day, not necessarily now).

Bratislava was a happy accident. We had no plan – in fact, I can’t even tell you why we chose to go there, except “It’s not too far from Vienna and it’s in Slovakia” Slovakia is new country for us and we loved every minute.

Wednesday – Our apartment, as mentioned in the last blog, was smack in the middle of old town and a stone’s throw to the busy main square (Hlavne namestie) which at this time of the year is set up with the Christmas market. On our first night, we walked around the markets and found plenty of delicious drinks to keep us warm and some hearty traditional foods. The square itself was looking beautiful – the Christmas decorations and lights really added to the vibe. Rod made friends with one of the stall workers selling their national dish – bryndzove hallusky (potato dumplings with various toppings). They struck up a conversation over Christmas markets (Bratislava vs Vienna) and us travelling from Australia. He was surprised by both! As we were eating the dumplings, other staff from the same stall kept looking at us and giving us a thumbs up, then he walked over and checked for himself that everything was good. Such friendly people. Throughout the week, Rod also made friends with one of the stall workers who sold hot alcoholic drinks closest to our apartment – we were there most days!

Thursday – Those warming drinks certainly creep up on you – which we didn’t realise until the next day. We’re slow to get started anyway, but with slightly heavy heads, we planned the day which included buying winter boots for Hamish. I’ve had my eye on a shoe shop called Deichmann, as they were having a good sale, so we headed to Nivy (huge, sparkling, modern shopping centre) with a Deichmann and found a pair of waterproof boots for 49 Euro – does Landrover really do a boot? The trip to the shopping centre included lunch (traditional for Hamish, miso soup and dumplings for Rod and I) and a few sights along the way, including the beautiful Blue Church (it’s rarely open for visitors) and the less fun, but significant, Memorial to the Victims of Communism. During the walk home, we had to try and answer Hamish’s question of the day: “What is Communism?”

We left Hamish at the apartment to do some maths with a promise of dessert at the market after dinner, and went for a pint at the local Scottish Pub (with beers so big you need two hands to hold) followed by a Kilkenny at the Irish pub next door.

As there is little difference between high and low temps here in winter, it does’t make much difference if you’re out in the day or the evening. Sometimes it’s just a few degrees of variation, say 6 degrees in the day and 3 degrees at night – makes little difference to your comfort. Once we delivered on the ‘dessert at the market’ we walked down to the Danube and walked home via the other Christmas market, just a few hundred meters away.

Friday – After a quick shop at Aldi (where you can buy shots of Vodka for $1.12 at the checkout) we visited Bratislava Castle, which proudly sits overlooking the city. It was a pretty easy walk with a generous sprinkle of steps thrown in to keep us warm. Some of the interior of the castle houses the Historical Museum which took us on a journey from prehistoric times (BC, Stone Age, Iron Age) to Roman Times to the more recent Velvet Revolution (when the Soviets left Slovakia). The history of Slovakia would take a lifetime to get your head around – it was part of Czechoslovakia (which we know as two seperate countries: Czekia and Slovakia) but has also had parts of its territory in Hungary. It seems every big player has tried to take a piece of Slovakia.

Saturday – We set out mid morning to walk to the UFO Tower, which is a 95m observation deck, bar and restaurant on the Danube. It was a clear, sunny morning which made for magnificent views of the city. As we were catching the lift to the top, I just had a funny feeling the observation deck was going to be outside – and I was right! As the lift stopped, we got out, saw the enclosed bar and restaurant to our left, but followed everyone heading up stairs to the open air observation area. Typical Eastern European fun.

Taking advantage of the sunny weather, we walked along the Danube. We grabbed some lunch at an unexpectedly excellent Asian restaurant in a small shopping centre (Rod and I actually shared some noodles here Wednesday when we did some grocery shopping) with a plan for me to to stay and get a manicure whilst Rod took Hamish home to do some maths. I had to call my Knight in Shining Armour back 30 mins later to pay, as they only took cash and I only had my phone with me.

Saturday evening we opted for dinner in a restaurant which served traditional foods (Hamish had dumplings and chicken, Rod had beef stroganoff and I had schnitzel) and had one last lap of the markets before retiring home.

“Who falls in the fight for freedom will not die” memorial to the Bulgarian Partisans from the Slovaks

We still cooked at home during our stay in Bratislava (Red curry with chicken and rice, pork stir fry with rice another night), but for the record, these are the foods and hot drinks we tried at the Christmas markets:

Honey Mead, Hot white wine, Apple gingerbread punch, Black Currant wine and Hot chocolate (non alcoholic).

Potato dumplings, potato pancake/fritter (kartoffelpuffer) bigger than a dinner plate, churros, funnel cake with cinnamon and sugar, Slovak crescent bread.

Do you want a shot with your alcoholic hot drink?

I haven’t captured the emotions we felt being in Bratislava – it’s hard to put into words, but they are the feelings that fill your chest with warmth and joy and the privilege of travel. If you ever get the chance, do not hesitate to put Bratislava on your travel list. It was simply incredible.

Man at Work – it’s a bit of an icon in Bratislava

Oh Vienna (Oh Rod!)

November 27, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

We have just boarded the train to Bratislava (Slovakia) and we are currently on the outskirts of Vienna. Moving day, as always, involves a lot of planning and organisation; today we caught two trams to the Hauptbahnhof and found the correct platform with plenty of time for Hamish to buy himself a packet of peanut M&Ms from a vending machine and time himself going up and down the escalator – 36 seconds.

The title of this blog refers to an 80’s song by UltraVox which Rod has been singing this week; the ‘Oh Rod’ part refers to the sheer joy he has inadvertently supplied for Hamish and I.

Our flight from Lisbon took about 31/2 hours and provided us with spectacular views of both the Pyrenees and Swiss Alps. There’s a bit of turbulence, but Hamish doesn’t seem to care. It’s freezing when we arrive, but Hamish tells me “it’s nice and fresh” – it’s barely 3 degrees! Once established in our lovely, warm, spacious apartment (82 stairs, no lift) Rod and I head to the Hofer (like the Aldi) to get a few groceries. Our host has suggested going to a local market on the Saturday morning, so we don’t buy too many fresh fruit and veg. Cooking in new apartments each week can be interesting; will there be a sharp knife? Will the non-stick pans actually live up to their name? There’s no cutting board…no microwave…only 1 wine glass…First world problems of course!

The market on Saturday morning is huge! We buy a few fresh vegetables (leek, zucchini, carrots, potatoes). Rod is disappointed when the potatoes at the next stand are much bigger and not so sad looking. We are in a very multi-cultural area of Vienna, with lots of middle eastern and Turkish restaurants and goods to be purchased. We discuss how it was only 5 years ago many European countries took in refugees from Syria, especially Germany and Austria. We head back to the apartment and drop off our goods, then catch a tram into the city to go to the House of Music museum.

Side note: When we arrived Friday, Rod spent the best part of an hour researching which public transport card we would need for the week. He eventually settled on the Vienna Card for 35 euro each – Hamish travels free (otherwise each single trip is 2.80 euro). The associated app Ivie, has lots of information to plan your visit to Vienna and we have used it every day. The app also stores your individual public transport card. You don’t have to tap on and off, but you do need to show it if requested.

On the way to the museum, Rod promptly deletes his public transport card by hitting the ‘dismiss’ button on the app. Took us a good 40 mins to rectify this in the middle of the city by going to two tourism offices. The young woman at the counter suggested I get Rod’s public transport card added to my app. I roll my eyes. We get our first of many wursts (German sausages) and I buy myself a beanie and scarf from H&M. It’s 4 degrees. The rest of the first day is spent at the music museum, two floors devoted to the Vienna Philharmonic and famous composers. The other two floors were interactive and explained about sounds and hearing (and other things). We are leg weary by the afternoon and go home via the Hofer to get something for dinner.

Rod has a classical concert booked tonight and Hamish and I are staying home to have oven baked pizza. We cannot be trusted at a classical concert (but really, we’re not that into it). Rod successfully navigates his way to and from the concert and we are proud of him. At 7pm, I say to Hamish “Dad must be OK I haven’t heard from him!” We laugh. Rod will write about his concert below.

Vienna Baroque Orchestra – by Rod

It was easy to get to the venue and I arrived just as the doors were opening, 30 minutes before the show started. The theatre was cosy, with about 130 chairs in all, most of which were soon occupied. A string quartet duly appeared, along with a pianist. Then the lead violinist/conductor arrived to start things off with the Overture from Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro. The sound was amazing. It was like I was listening to a recording in my lounge room with the volume way up. Next was a stirring rendition of the 3 movements of Vivaldi’s “Summer.” Much of the rest of the program was not so familiar to me, including a few arias featuring a tenor and a soprano (whose voices really filled the room), but was still most enjoyable. As was the glass of bubbles at half time. The show was wonderful and that lead violinist was terrific; she only looked at some sheet music for one of the dozen or so items and she also indulged in a bit of theatre with the singers for a few laughs. So glad I included this in my Vienna experience.

Sunday we plan to have a day off; we are all tired and need the down time. Rod had initially talked about a 2 hour self guided tour and I say no way, 2 hours of walking around the city is not a day off! Rod wants to see the Danube river so we plan out a ‘short walk’ that involves seeing the famous river and going to a Christmas market where we will get a late lunch. Turns out my planning route stopped at the canal, not the Danube. Rod finds a new route to the Danube, but it takes us over an hour, through some drab looking suburbs. We happen to find a Maccas to use the toilets and grab a snack. The foot bridge over the freeway finally gets us to the Danube; Rod takes a photo and we retreat. I find us a tram to get back into the city because we don’t want to walk another 5km on our day off!

It’s dark at 4pm so the market is sparkling when we arrive – it’s beautiful and our misadventures of the afternoon are soon forgotten about. Hot drinks are the first on our list, followed by wurst – this is our ‘late lunch!’ Later we find a couple of huge pretzels which we share (one sweet, one savoury), and we also have a hot apple cider. Life is good and we happily catch the tram home. No one needs dinner tonight.

Monday we head to the small museum of Snow Globes – this is special because this is where Snow Globes originated. So the story goes, the GGG Grandfather of the current owners, made medical instruments in his time. Once Edison had invented the globe, he wanted to make the lighting brighter for surgery/surgeons, so pottered about with light and globes full over water. Long story short, the snow globe was accidentally invented. This family of artisans have made snow globes for a host of famous people and overall, it was a nice little place to visit. The entire time, I’m in low key overbearing parent mode “careful Hamish, don’t break anything, don’t touch, watch your bag when you turn around…” you get the drift. Hamish is keen to buy a couple of small snow globes as gifts and carefully picks out his favourites and pays for them. Rod thinks this is a good idea too, so he’s looking at the delicate globes when he drops one. It breaks, of course; the owner says it’s no problem. Hamish and I do not let Rod live this down for the rest of the day; I mean, this man has been a top class wicket keeper and footballer!

The Schonbrunn Palace is next on our agenda and we walk around the corner from the Snow Globes museum to catch a bus there. Markets are in full swing and we grab a couple of hot chocolates and some warming food. The Schonbrunn Palace was the summer residence of the Royal Family, but now regular citizens (well, they’re probably not ‘regular citizens’) live in the palace which has been converted to apartments. We follow the walk we’ve found on the Ivie app which takes us through the palace gardens and up to the Gloriette, which is a lovely landmark and building with stunning views. Hamish delights in skipping stones across frozen ponds. We head back home via the UBahn and have a delicious homemade chicken soup with local dumplings. If you ever visit Germany or Austria, a way I remember the difference between the U-Bahn and S-Bahn is U = Underground, S = Surface. Easy!

Tuesday is our last day in Vienna and Rod has picked a walking tour from the Ivie app. It’s a self-guided tour around the periphery (Ringstrasse) of the old town. There are many, many, many beautiful buildings, statues, parks and gardens. As well as a WW2 military monument showing some love for Ukraine. What feels illegal but isn’t? Prosecco in the middle of the day! We stop off at Karlplatz Christmas market for a drink and a hot chocolate for Hamish. This provides us with some enthusiasm for the remainder of the tour. I had read Vienna has 50% green spaces in the city, the most in any city in the world and it pops amongst the starkness of the buildings.

Getting back to Rod and his oopsies in the last few weeks. Do not feel sorry for him! He is the first one in the family to point out our weaknesses, he corrects us all the time and is the most sarcastic member of our family, so it’s only deserving that Hamish and I remind him he is human! Since deleting his travel card, Hamish says to Rod, “What does this button do?” I am laughing as I am writing this. Boomer is also something we’ve been calling him. Whenever we see a statue of a person on a horse, we say “I can see a statue of a man, but there’s no horse!” (From when he was lost in Lisbon). I have been making ‘dropping objects’ movements with my thumb and forefinger when I look at him (from the Snow Globe incident) and remind him he is like Mr Bean in Merry Christmas Mr Bean, when he smashes the Christmas bauble on the floor. It is all in good fun and we all agree that it’s the little mishaps we will remember the most in the years to come.

As I finish this blog, we are waiting for the washing to finish in our new digs in Bratislava. It was a quick train trip from Vienna, no one checked our tickets so could have saved ourselves some money and stress! We worked out how to buy a bus ticket from what looked like a very old ticket machine and found the bus into the city. We dragged our bags down the cobblestones and I’m pleased to say no suitcase wheels were lost! We are in the pedestrian area of Bratislava and our apartment is on the first floor, 34 steps, no lift! First impressions of Bratislava is it reminded us of Warsaw; architecture in the style of the Soviet Union. The pedestrian centre is, though, just lovely with decorative buildings and lots of places to explore. The Christmas market is just around the corner and it will be nice not to have to navigate the public transport again until we leave for Budapest on Sunday.

Lisbon Part B

November 21, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

What a great week we’ve had in Lisbon – we’ve loved it. I didn’t have high expectations to be honest, but I am so glad we added this to our plan. Tip: If you are planning to visit, do not cut it short, give yourself at least 5 days. We leave for Vienna tomorrow morning on an early flight (that’s going to be a struggle) but still have a couple of things we’d like to squeeze in today, which I’ll add to the end of this blog before I publish it.

Jardim do Aqueduto das Aguascalientes Livres – (or, Roman Aqueduct)

When we arrived last week, the aqueduct was something Hamish had spotted in the distance; being over 100m high, it catches the eye. After a little bit of research, I saw that you can visit it AND, it was an only a 20 minute walk from our apartment. Navigating was pretty straightforward, with stops for traffic and gazing at the planes flying in low overhead, just above the buildings, on their landing run. The entry to the site was very cheap ($12) – there is a small outdoor museum (a few very informative boards explaining the history) and then you can walk along one side, through the middle and back along the other side of the aqueduct. The aqueduct was built by the Romans (of course!) and it was one of the few structures to survive the 1755 earthquake, which devastated the city. The views alone are worth the visit – a nice little find to enjoy in the perfect weather we’ve been having.

Bertrand Livraria – Oldest Bookshop in the World

Rod stumbled across this little gem, so we set off on foot from our apartment to find it. The thing we have loved about Lisbon (well, one of the many things…) is that whilst it can be a ‘bit’ hilly, the distances aren’t huge, so it makes it easy to get around without missing the little treasures that are bypassed by a metro line. As we neared the bookshop, I ducked into an Ale-Hop looking for some packing cubes (to pack away our summer clothes for the next 5 weeks) and as we exited, the bookstore was directly across the road! Bonus here, a big section of English books, so I found one that would interest both Rod and me. The young woman at the checkout asked if I’d like the book stamped – English or Portuguese? Portuguese of course!

The bookshop is in Chiado which is a suburb next to the home of the famous Santa Justa Lift.

Christmas Tree Progress

We have checked on the progress of the HUGE Christmas tree everyday and are pleased to say yesterday all sections have been constructed and all branches attached. Today, some gold baubles have been added. We will miss the official ‘lights on’ tomorrow, but it’s been a fun side project.

Whilst researching the trip to Sintra (see next paragraph) Rod thought maybe an ‘eyes on’ the train station (next to the metro, but not part of the metro) would be a good idea. The man does love to be organised for public transport! Hamish and I left him and walked to check on the Christmas tree with a plan to meet Rod “Here, at the square with the guy on the horse” (it’s a 25m high statue – like, you can’t miss it). To be fair, metros and train stations can be tricky especially when you have multiple entrances and exits for the same line. As Hamish and I are walking back to the designated meeting point, I get a call from Rod, “I’m at a square, but there’s only a statue of a guy, not a guy on a horse.” After a bit of too-ing and fro-ing with messages, such as “I’m at McDonalds at Rossio” and “Stay there, we will come to you” we found Rod in the square NEXT to the square! He hadn’t found the Rossio train station and had gotten terribly lost in the 3 Rossio metro stations. Not to brag, but I found it the next morning from the bus – it also catches the eye.

(*not our photo)

Day Trip to Sintra (by Rod)

Sintra had been something I identified and noted before we left home, though when, weeks later, I consulted my notes on my phone, spellcheck had amended this to Sinatra. So I spent a while pondering the possible connection of old blue eyes to Lisbon. We soon realised that Sintra is a town pretty much on the western outskirts of Lisbon. We do our due diligence checking transport and attractions. There is a separate railway station to Sintra at Rossio, in the heart of town. Confusingly, there is also a Rossio on the Metro, so it takes a bit of finding. I try on my own to do so, and end up needing the McDonald’s wifi to let Belinda know that I am lost, not even in the square I started in! However, we work it out with a bit more online searching so are good to go.

We arrive at (the correct) Rossio station with about 10 seconds to spare before the train departs. It’s an easy trip of about 30 minutes. It’s fairly chaotic at the other end, though. A huge queue trickles through 2 or 3 turnstiles before we all spill onto the street and decide what our next transport option will be. Belinda decides to chat to a Tuk Tuk driver, who turns out to be named Magda and is very lively. So we head up the hill with Magda, towards the famous Peña Palace, the main tourist attraction of Sintra. It is an amazing place, surrounded by wonderful gardens and we happily spend an hour or so exploring before eating our picnic lunch.

We then toddle off in the direction of the nearby Moorish (Moopish?) Castle, which is about 600 years old. I choose to sit this one out. Turns out to be a wise decision; there was little in the way of walls/railings to prevent a calamitous fall. Even Hamish declined parts of the walk.

From the castle there is a lovely walk back to town through the forest. A bit of afternoon tea rounds off the stay before we stroll back to the station. On the way we find some tiles appropriately numbered to erect on the front of our house. We are the only people in the car (as I learnt it is called by watching Sherlock) when we depart exactly on time. It has been a lovely day in Sintra, which is a gorgeous and interesting town, which is understandably UNESCO listed.

Belem

Today has been busy, but lots of it in preparation for our departure to Vienna in the morning. We’ve had the luxury of a car for the past month, so today was a bit of a ‘throw it out’ kind of day. Not ones to waste, we’ve used the last of our eggs, ham and vegetables.

After midday, we caught a bus to Belem, which is a suburb about half an hour away on the coast. It’s still part of Lisbon, it just takes ages in the bus! Here we planned to see three sites: Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (it’s a very fancy Monastery)

The Pardrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument of Discovery – basically a tribute to the Portuguese explorers)

Belem Tower

We were happy enough looking from the outside and enjoying the last day in Lisbon, although we did have to dodge some rain! Easy enough when there’s ice-cream shops around! For interest, the blue car below is a new car, based on the old cars and they run on electricity. They are used for tourism purposes, but look very grand driving around the city streets.

We caught a tram back into the city to check on the Christmas tree and have a couple of drinks and some food before heading home to finish packing. Ask me one day about the aggressive drunk guy who sat next to me on the tram, but spent the full 10 minutes hurling abuse (and his umbrella point) at the guy sitting on his right (I was on his left and thankfully not in his field of vision) because he told him to take his feet off a rail. Keeping things spicy in Portugal!

Lisbon Part A

November 18, 2024November 18, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

As I write this, it’s Monday evening. Rod has just put a baking tray of vegetables in the oven to have with some chicken for dinner and Hamish is resting, watching You-tubers play MineCraft. Thank you for the well wishes – I still have a bit of a head cold, but the boys seem to be back to normal now (paracetamol in Lisbon is 85 cents for a packet of 20 x 500mg tablets, for those of you interested in the price comparison).

Prior to arriving in Lisbon, Rod and I decided we should return the car a week early due to the logistics of parking and the fact we wouldn’t use the car this week at all. Should have thought that one through a bit more at home, but oh well. Rod dropped the car back to the depot out near the airport in Friday afternoon traffic and caught the metro back to the suburb we are staying in (Rato). After doing two loads of washing (yes, the boring stuff never ends) Hamish and I walked uphill to the nearest market for a little bit of shopping for dinner (pre-made lasagne and a pre-made salad) and breakfast things (cereal, milk, bread, peanut M&M’s…).

Gerard and Fiona flew from Dublin Friday evening and we arranged to meet them Saturday morning at the Miradoura da Graca which is a little spot where you can sit at a cafe and look at the gorgeous views of Lisbon. Although I gave instructions for the meet-up point, we actually arrived at the wrong view point (due to our Uber driver saying “this will do” – seriously? I had already give him 5 stars before I realised what had happened!) Anyway, after a few back and forth messages of “we’re here” and “so are we – where are you?” I realised the error and we walked down to see them. What a delight it was to see them both sitting there! We spent a few hours catching up before heading in the general direction of the Time Out Market for a late lunch, via the winding narrow streets of Lisbon. It was quite an effort to find somewhere to sit in the Market, but Fiona took the lead and out of the blue a couple of women agreed to relinquish their seats once they’d finished their sangrias.

After lunch, it was agreed to retire to our respective apartments and meet up later for dinner. We caught the bus home and I had a good sleep for over an hour – touring and being sick can be tough! That evening Gerard and Fiona came to our apartment and we drank some bubbles to celebrate their recent marriage. After this, we sauntered down our street for dinner at the local Japanese restaurant. Gerard and Rod kept us entertained with stories from Uni and teaching rounds. To be honest, Fiona and I had likely heard most of the stories before, but Hamish was VERY excited to be hearing about what his Dad got up to as a young man in Melbourne. Ask Rod about his PhD next time you see him!

Sunday we walked into the city and met Gerard and Fiona near their apartment in the famous (and oldest suburb of Lisbon) Alfama. We had a pretty ordinary lunch in a tiny restaurant. Hamish ordered a pizza, but there were no pizza’s – the waiter said: “How about a hamburger with an egg and some chips?” Typical Hamish said, “sure”. Three of us had the recommended fish cakes with rice and salad, but I wasn’t a fan (Rod said they were good, Fiona was also kind about it) and Gerard had calamari which he described as “OK”. The so called “Chef” was very sweet, popping out of the kitchen to check on us and we all had to lie and say things were great! We found a bar later for a farewell drink and just as quickly as they had arrived, they were flying back to Dublin. On our trip back home, we stumbled across a funky barber shop and Hamish had a haircut (I had to bribe him with a Portuguese tartlet).

This morning Rod and I left Hamish with some maths to do and pottered up and down the streets of Rato admiring the gorgeous tiled buildings.

We made our way to the British Cemetery which probably sounds like a bit of a weird thing to do, but it’s quite an historical site with some renowned people buried such as Henry Fielding (British author who wrote Tom Jones). Others included well respected merchants, sailors and public figures from a number of different countries – we hadn’t heard of them, but I like to get a sense of the person from the descriptive messages on their tombstones. One woman’s said something like ‘lived a life and flourished under adversity’ – I want to know more about Kitty Gordon Aston (I will have to do a bit of searching!).

After lunch we caught the bus into the city and walked to the castle “Castello de San Jorge.” Rod and Hamish counted 115 steps from one street level to the next (which is pretty mild by Lisbon standards) and we added a few more meters of elevation before reaching the ticket office. As you are aware, we love our castles and this one did not disappoint! All the main players have been involved with this castle at one point or another since its origin in the 10th Century (Romans, Moors, Berbers, Portuguese Kings, Christians). Once inside the castle compound you are free to aimlessly wander the grounds; we mostly followed the walls on the periphery providing us with the best views over the city and river.

The wall didn’t have much of a buffer (it wasn’t very high) so Rod was feeling a bit uneasy with us peering over the edges. Things didn’t improve for Rod as we walked up the narrow steep steps to the ramparts. Again, short walls, multi-directional foot traffic, people trying to pass on the narrow ramparts some with backpacks, others with pushers or children in slings, proved to be Rod’s undoing. After being brave for as long as he could, Rod headed back to the safety of the ground, whilst Hamish and I continued to potter about. I think having this type of flexibility when you travel (you go, we’ll stay – no hurt feelings, we don’t always have to do everything together) is so important for the trip to run smoothly, especially when you’re travelling for extended periods of time.

After exiting the castle grounds, we grabbed some ice-cream, listened to a reggae band and headed back into the city where Hamish was keen to check on the progress of the construction of the HUGE Christmas tree in the Praca do Comercio (large public plaza on the waterfront). We’re still at the frame stage, but the top section has had its greenery and some decorations added.

From here, we walked back into another plaza where the Christmas markets has had a soft opening over the weekend. Today was the first of many hot chocolates and gluhweins I’m sure! The top temperature when we land in Vienna Friday is 2 degrees! Eeeek!

Sevilla

November 14, 2024 ~ Bel Dunbar ~ Leave a comment

Saturday

We arrived in Sevilla last Saturday afternoon after an easy 5 hour drive from Madrid. The roads were wide and in good condition with no tolls; actually we’ve not had a toll since leaving Andorra. The city of approximately 1 million people lies in the SW corner of Spain, an hour and a half to the Portuguese border in the Gulf of Cadiz (if we kept going West, we’d end up in Washington DC). Until this week, we called this city Seville. But it’s actually written as Sevilla and pronounced Ce-ville-ya (we are so cultured…). Our apartment is in a block with a narrow, paved road leading to the underground park in the suburb of San Lorenzo. Initially it’s hard to gauge what’s around, but we unpack and head to get some groceries to give us our bearings.

Our expedition to find a small market (the Dia) put us in the middle of a huge square (the Alameda de Hercules) which is loaded with restaurants and cafes – we find the Dia squeezed between two of these restaurants. The story is Hercules founded Sevilla, thus the huge square, road and Greek-looking columns in his honour. I am not joking when I say there are probably 40 restaurants in this area. We decide to come back for dinner. We have already walked past another square where people are sitting outside eating and drinking. Spain is great like that; we grumble to each other about the lack of the same back home. At the local square (not the Hercules one) Rod notices a road/tunnel that is opened, but we don’t go and look, we leave this until later in the week when we find out what we thought was a road was actually the doorway to a church.

Our dinner does not disappoint with fresh fish (me), burger (Hamish) and a local traditional meal for Rod – stewed pork cheek.

Sunday

Hamish has been nursing a sore throat for a day, but says he’s good to go for our first full day of exploring. Our aim is to walk along the canal to the Plaza of Spain, then try and find the Cathedral of Seville (it’s huge, it wasn’t hard) and then maybe the Real Alcazar (palace) before coming home.

You need tickets for the Cathedral and the Palace, and to date (it’s currently Thursday afternoon) we’ve not bothered with the Cathedral tickets and were unable to get tickets for the Palace, even though it’s shoulder season!

The Plaza of Spain is gorgeous – we love the tiles and mosaics, there’s boats and you can have a horse and carriage ride.

After quite a bit of walking, we get some frozen slushies and head home, as Hamish is now not feeling great – “dreadful” is the descriptive word he used! We get some washing out on the rooftop clotheslines (something else we love about Spain and Portugal!) before walking in a different direction, but ending up at the Hercules Square for wine and tapas. The weather is a perfect 23 degrees. You can pick the locals from the tourists: locals dress for the season, tourists dress for the weather. We are in shorts and shirts, but the locals are in jeans and puffy vests.

Monday

Hamish’s head cold has worsened overnight, but you’ll be pleased to know he was well enough to stay home on the couch and play games on his Switch. Rod has a plan that involves the two of us exploring the local area, so that if Hamish needs us, we’re close by. We find the Macarena Church, which is (free) incredibly ornate inside, the ancient city walls and the Parliament of Andalucia before we stop for a late morning tea. Andalucia is the name given to this province and the green and white striped flag is the Andalucian flag.

On our way back to the apartment we have stumbled across markets, each one dedicated to a different food type: fruit and vegetables in one, fish in another, meat and small goods in another, sweets/baked goods in another. We are sorry we’ve already done some grocery shopping; the tomatoes are rivalled only by Dad’s! Another accidental discovery on our way home is the Setas of Sevilla – the largest wooden structure in the world, affectionately called ‘The Mushroom’ here. You can pay to walk up top, but we wait to do this until Hamish is well (although he doesn’t get well in time and then the weather is against us!).

Once home, we all have lunch and a siesta. After this, Rod and I go out for an hour or so exploring the area on the other side of the canal near our apartment. The World Fair in 1992 was hosted here and there exists eerie relics, buildings and a water fountain, which we turn into an idea for a post apocalyptic movie as we walk along. There’s barely anyone around, save for a couple of people on scooters and a handful of cars, but plenty of empty buses cruising by. We navigate back home via the Tower of Sevilla, whose modern design looks out of place in our movie set.

Tuesday (by Rod)

With Hamish still under the weather, we leave him on the couch (with a ready made baguette in the fridge) and head to the Nao Victoria museum. This place is designed to celebrate both the first vessel to successfully circumnavigate the globe and the skipper of the fleet – Ferdinand Magellan. Whilst it does not make Tripadvisor’s “top 25” things to do in Sevilla it certainly captures our imagination! A mixture of relics, videos, photos, etc. paints a vivid picture of this epic and incredibly significant voyage. Of the five ships and (about) 270 crew who started the trip, only 1 ship (Victoria) and 18 crew made it back to Sevilla. (Magellan met a violent death in The Philippines; trying too hard to convert the locals to Christianity is a dangerous pastime.) The tour is completed with a thorough inspection of the rebuilt Victoria berthed in the canal, just outside the front door of the museum. Our minds struggle to comprehend the hardships they must have faced living in these cramped and often miserable surrounds.

We repeat our late lunchtime routine (check on Hamish, eat, siesta) then walk around our neighbourhood to find a church (it’s actually a convent which we can see from our roof) whose bells are manic! Irregular tolling, and fast as if the Nuns are running late! We find this, get Panadol (which comes in 1g tablets and costs about 4 euro ($6) for 10 tablets – very expensive!) and meander home through the streets of our suburb.

Wednesday

Earlier in the week I had booked a haircut at a salon on the corner “David Franco – Stylist” about a 2 minute walk. David doesn’t speak any English and his client (mid cut) pops over to help out with the booking. We’re all set for Wednesday morning 1030. I go armed with a couple of pictures and after a wash and condition by his apprentices, he gets to cutting. The very first thing he does is grab clippers and a huge wooden Afro comb. God. My heart rate elevates, but I figure what’s the worse that could happen? Long story short (no pun intended) my hair is a bit shorter than usual, but he’s done a fab job. The cost? $43 AUD! Can you, my female friends, remember the last time your ‘wash, cut, blowdry’ was less than $50! We are getting ripped off in Australia!

Hamish is up for a half day of exploring, but I have woken up with a sore throat. It was bound to happen…I actually feel OK and our plan is based around a trip to the Plaza de Toros – yes, it’s the bullfighting ring. We have since found out that bullfighting still occurs in Sevilla and Madrid (and probably a few other places too). We don’t like the idea of bullfighting, but the hundreds of years of history and culture are hard to ignore. The stadium is impressive and I think still looks like it would have back in the day. It’s easy to imagine the crowds, the Matadors, Toreadors (on horseback) and the huge bulls co-existing in this arena.

Our next plan is to go on a boat trip up and down the canal. It’s starting to get cold and there’s an hour to wait. We grab some food, but the service is a bit slow so we miss the next boat too! Never mind, we explore the canal side a bit more and board the boat. Everyone is shutting windows due to the weather and Rod gets me a coffee (and himself a bucket of wine!).

I am dressed for the weather, but I am still cold – Hamish tells me I need to picture warmth to get warm. It doesn’t work, so he and Rod sit a bit closer to me to help. The boat cruise was OK, but we found it a bit boring. I think it would have been better with a warmer day and if we’d not done so much exploring in the days prior! We walk home via the Aldi where we’ve found sushi and a NZ Sauv Blanc (the wine is cheap here, but those NZ SB’s are incredible). I’m positively freezing and feel myself going downhill.

Thursday (today)

Well I am now pretty sick and Rod has a sore throat. I haven’t been sick since I had COVID 2 years ago! Hamish is on the mend, but has less energy than usual. I’ve spent the day sleeping, my body is aching and my head is pounding! I’ve not had the flu, but feel I may have it. Or, as Dr Rod says, just a bad cold. We leave tomorrow for Lisboa (Lisbon) which is about a 4-ish hour drive. This weekend in Lisboa, we are catching up with Rod’s Uni buddy Gerard and his wife Fiona, which we are really looking forward to. Not looking forward to the hills, of which Lisboa is renowned for!

We’re there for a week before flying to Vienna next Friday, where we will crack out our winter gear. We’ve been blessed with (mostly) beautiful weather in the past 7 weeks and will tough out the cold for 5 weeks until we leave for Thailand/Malaysia after Christmas.

	Stephen Patten on Düsseldorf to Phuket
	Bel Dunbar on Budapest
	Stephen Patten on Budapest
	Carmelina Di Gugliel… on Halfway Point
	Bel Dunbar on Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

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