Bratislava

It’s Monday evening December 2 (actually it’s only 5pm, but it feels much later) and I’m writing this blog from our apartment in Budapest, Hungary. We arrived late yesterday afternoon, after the 3 of us suffering from insomnia Sunday night and having to hang around Bratislava train station for an extra 30 mins due to our train being delayed. Once we were on the train, everything was smooth and we found the right tram to deliver us to our suburb (District 7) – it’s the Jewish Quarter (named from back in the day, not necessarily now).

Bratislava was a happy accident. We had no plan – in fact, I can’t even tell you why we chose to go there, except “It’s not too far from Vienna and it’s in Slovakia” Slovakia is new country for us and we loved every minute.

Wednesday – Our apartment, as mentioned in the last blog, was smack in the middle of old town and a stone’s throw to the busy main square (Hlavne namestie) which at this time of the year is set up with the Christmas market. On our first night, we walked around the markets and found plenty of delicious drinks to keep us warm and some hearty traditional foods. The square itself was looking beautiful – the Christmas decorations and lights really added to the vibe. Rod made friends with one of the stall workers selling their national dish – bryndzove hallusky (potato dumplings with various toppings). They struck up a conversation over Christmas markets (Bratislava vs Vienna) and us travelling from Australia. He was surprised by both! As we were eating the dumplings, other staff from the same stall kept looking at us and giving us a thumbs up, then he walked over and checked for himself that everything was good. Such friendly people. Throughout the week, Rod also made friends with one of the stall workers who sold hot alcoholic drinks closest to our apartment – we were there most days!

Thursday – Those warming drinks certainly creep up on you – which we didn’t realise until the next day. We’re slow to get started anyway, but with slightly heavy heads, we planned the day which included buying winter boots for Hamish. I’ve had my eye on a shoe shop called Deichmann, as they were having a good sale, so we headed to Nivy (huge, sparkling, modern shopping centre) with a Deichmann and found a pair of waterproof boots for 49 Euro – does Landrover really do a boot? The trip to the shopping centre included lunch (traditional for Hamish, miso soup and dumplings for Rod and I) and a few sights along the way, including the beautiful Blue Church (it’s rarely open for visitors) and the less fun, but significant, Memorial to the Victims of Communism. During the walk home, we had to try and answer Hamish’s question of the day: “What is Communism?”

We left Hamish at the apartment to do some maths with a promise of dessert at the market after dinner, and went for a pint at the local Scottish Pub (with beers so big you need two hands to hold) followed by a Kilkenny at the Irish pub next door.

As there is little difference between high and low temps here in winter, it does’t make much difference if you’re out in the day or the evening. Sometimes it’s just a few degrees of variation, say 6 degrees in the day and 3 degrees at night – makes little difference to your comfort. Once we delivered on the ‘dessert at the market’ we walked down to the Danube and walked home via the other Christmas market, just a few hundred meters away.

Friday – After a quick shop at Aldi (where you can buy shots of Vodka for $1.12 at the checkout) we visited Bratislava Castle, which proudly sits overlooking the city. It was a pretty easy walk with a generous sprinkle of steps thrown in to keep us warm. Some of the interior of the castle houses the Historical Museum which took us on a journey from prehistoric times (BC, Stone Age, Iron Age) to Roman Times to the more recent Velvet Revolution (when the Soviets left Slovakia). The history of Slovakia would take a lifetime to get your head around – it was part of Czechoslovakia (which we know as two seperate countries: Czekia and Slovakia) but has also had parts of its territory in Hungary. It seems every big player has tried to take a piece of Slovakia.

Saturday – We set out mid morning to walk to the UFO Tower, which is a 95m observation deck, bar and restaurant on the Danube. It was a clear, sunny morning which made for magnificent views of the city. As we were catching the lift to the top, I just had a funny feeling the observation deck was going to be outside – and I was right! As the lift stopped, we got out, saw the enclosed bar and restaurant to our left, but followed everyone heading up stairs to the open air observation area. Typical Eastern European fun.

Taking advantage of the sunny weather, we walked along the Danube. We grabbed some lunch at an unexpectedly excellent Asian restaurant in a small shopping centre (Rod and I actually shared some noodles here Wednesday when we did some grocery shopping) with a plan for me to to stay and get a manicure whilst Rod took Hamish home to do some maths. I had to call my Knight in Shining Armour back 30 mins later to pay, as they only took cash and I only had my phone with me.

Saturday evening we opted for dinner in a restaurant which served traditional foods (Hamish had dumplings and chicken, Rod had beef stroganoff and I had schnitzel) and had one last lap of the markets before retiring home.

We still cooked at home during our stay in Bratislava (Red curry with chicken and rice, pork stir fry with rice another night), but for the record, these are the foods and hot drinks we tried at the Christmas markets:

Honey Mead, Hot white wine, Apple gingerbread punch, Black Currant wine and Hot chocolate (non alcoholic).

Potato dumplings, potato pancake/fritter (kartoffelpuffer) bigger than a dinner plate, churros, funnel cake with cinnamon and sugar, Slovak crescent bread.

I haven’t captured the emotions we felt being in Bratislava – it’s hard to put into words, but they are the feelings that fill your chest with warmth and joy and the privilege of travel. If you ever get the chance, do not hesitate to put Bratislava on your travel list. It was simply incredible.

Oh Vienna (Oh Rod!)

We have just boarded the train to Bratislava (Slovakia) and we are currently on the outskirts of Vienna. Moving day, as always, involves a lot of planning and organisation; today we caught two trams to the Hauptbahnhof and found the correct platform with plenty of time for Hamish to buy himself a packet of peanut M&Ms from a vending machine and time himself going up and down the escalator – 36 seconds.

The title of this blog refers to an 80’s song by UltraVox which Rod has been singing this week; the ‘Oh Rod’ part refers to the sheer joy he has inadvertently supplied for Hamish and I.

Our flight from Lisbon took about 31/2 hours and provided us with spectacular views of both the Pyrenees and Swiss Alps. There’s a bit of turbulence, but Hamish doesn’t seem to care. It’s freezing when we arrive, but Hamish tells me “it’s nice and fresh” – it’s barely 3 degrees! Once established in our lovely, warm, spacious apartment (82 stairs, no lift) Rod and I head to the Hofer (like the Aldi) to get a few groceries. Our host has suggested going to a local market on the Saturday morning, so we don’t buy too many fresh fruit and veg. Cooking in new apartments each week can be interesting; will there be a sharp knife? Will the non-stick pans actually live up to their name? There’s no cutting board…no microwave…only 1 wine glass…First world problems of course!

The market on Saturday morning is huge! We buy a few fresh vegetables (leek, zucchini, carrots, potatoes). Rod is disappointed when the potatoes at the next stand are much bigger and not so sad looking. We are in a very multi-cultural area of Vienna, with lots of middle eastern and Turkish restaurants and goods to be purchased. We discuss how it was only 5 years ago many European countries took in refugees from Syria, especially Germany and Austria. We head back to the apartment and drop off our goods, then catch a tram into the city to go to the House of Music museum.

Side note: When we arrived Friday, Rod spent the best part of an hour researching which public transport card we would need for the week. He eventually settled on the Vienna Card for 35 euro each – Hamish travels free (otherwise each single trip is 2.80 euro). The associated app Ivie, has lots of information to plan your visit to Vienna and we have used it every day. The app also stores your individual public transport card. You don’t have to tap on and off, but you do need to show it if requested.

On the way to the museum, Rod promptly deletes his public transport card by hitting the ‘dismiss’ button on the app. Took us a good 40 mins to rectify this in the middle of the city by going to two tourism offices. The young woman at the counter suggested I get Rod’s public transport card added to my app. I roll my eyes. We get our first of many wursts (German sausages) and I buy myself a beanie and scarf from H&M. It’s 4 degrees. The rest of the first day is spent at the music museum, two floors devoted to the Vienna Philharmonic and famous composers. The other two floors were interactive and explained about sounds and hearing (and other things). We are leg weary by the afternoon and go home via the Hofer to get something for dinner.

Rod has a classical concert booked tonight and Hamish and I are staying home to have oven baked pizza. We cannot be trusted at a classical concert (but really, we’re not that into it). Rod successfully navigates his way to and from the concert and we are proud of him. At 7pm, I say to Hamish “Dad must be OK I haven’t heard from him!” We laugh. Rod will write about his concert below.

Vienna Baroque Orchestra – by Rod

It was easy to get to the venue and I arrived just as the doors were opening, 30 minutes before the show started. The theatre was cosy, with about 130 chairs in all, most of which were soon occupied. A string quartet duly appeared, along with a pianist. Then the lead violinist/conductor arrived to start things off with the Overture from Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro. The sound was amazing. It was like I was listening to a recording in my lounge room with the volume way up. Next was a stirring rendition of the 3 movements of Vivaldi’s “Summer.” Much of the rest of the program was not so familiar to me, including a few arias featuring a tenor and a soprano (whose voices really filled the room), but was still most enjoyable. As was the glass of bubbles at half time. The show was wonderful and that lead violinist was terrific; she only looked at some sheet music for one of the dozen or so items and she also indulged in a bit of theatre with the singers for a few laughs. So glad I included this in my Vienna experience.

Sunday we plan to have a day off; we are all tired and need the down time. Rod had initially talked about a 2 hour self guided tour and I say no way, 2 hours of walking around the city is not a day off! Rod wants to see the Danube river so we plan out a ‘short walk’ that involves seeing the famous river and going to a Christmas market where we will get a late lunch. Turns out my planning route stopped at the canal, not the Danube. Rod finds a new route to the Danube, but it takes us over an hour, through some drab looking suburbs. We happen to find a Maccas to use the toilets and grab a snack. The foot bridge over the freeway finally gets us to the Danube; Rod takes a photo and we retreat. I find us a tram to get back into the city because we don’t want to walk another 5km on our day off!

It’s dark at 4pm so the market is sparkling when we arrive – it’s beautiful and our misadventures of the afternoon are soon forgotten about. Hot drinks are the first on our list, followed by wurst – this is our ‘late lunch!’ Later we find a couple of huge pretzels which we share (one sweet, one savoury), and we also have a hot apple cider. Life is good and we happily catch the tram home. No one needs dinner tonight.

Monday we head to the small museum of Snow Globes – this is special because this is where Snow Globes originated. So the story goes, the GGG Grandfather of the current owners, made medical instruments in his time. Once Edison had invented the globe, he wanted to make the lighting brighter for surgery/surgeons, so pottered about with light and globes full over water. Long story short, the snow globe was accidentally invented. This family of artisans have made snow globes for a host of famous people and overall, it was a nice little place to visit. The entire time, I’m in low key overbearing parent mode “careful Hamish, don’t break anything, don’t touch, watch your bag when you turn around…” you get the drift. Hamish is keen to buy a couple of small snow globes as gifts and carefully picks out his favourites and pays for them. Rod thinks this is a good idea too, so he’s looking at the delicate globes when he drops one. It breaks, of course; the owner says it’s no problem. Hamish and I do not let Rod live this down for the rest of the day; I mean, this man has been a top class wicket keeper and footballer!

The Schonbrunn Palace is next on our agenda and we walk around the corner from the Snow Globes museum to catch a bus there. Markets are in full swing and we grab a couple of hot chocolates and some warming food. The Schonbrunn Palace was the summer residence of the Royal Family, but now regular citizens (well, they’re probably not ‘regular citizens’) live in the palace which has been converted to apartments. We follow the walk we’ve found on the Ivie app which takes us through the palace gardens and up to the Gloriette, which is a lovely landmark and building with stunning views. Hamish delights in skipping stones across frozen ponds. We head back home via the UBahn and have a delicious homemade chicken soup with local dumplings. If you ever visit Germany or Austria, a way I remember the difference between the U-Bahn and S-Bahn is U = Underground, S = Surface. Easy!

Tuesday is our last day in Vienna and Rod has picked a walking tour from the Ivie app. It’s a self-guided tour around the periphery (Ringstrasse) of the old town. There are many, many, many beautiful buildings, statues, parks and gardens. As well as a WW2 military monument showing some love for Ukraine. What feels illegal but isn’t? Prosecco in the middle of the day! We stop off at Karlplatz Christmas market for a drink and a hot chocolate for Hamish. This provides us with some enthusiasm for the remainder of the tour. I had read Vienna has 50% green spaces in the city, the most in any city in the world and it pops amongst the starkness of the buildings.

Getting back to Rod and his oopsies in the last few weeks. Do not feel sorry for him! He is the first one in the family to point out our weaknesses, he corrects us all the time and is the most sarcastic member of our family, so it’s only deserving that Hamish and I remind him he is human! Since deleting his travel card, Hamish says to Rod, “What does this button do?” I am laughing as I am writing this. Boomer is also something we’ve been calling him. Whenever we see a statue of a person on a horse, we say “I can see a statue of a man, but there’s no horse!” (From when he was lost in Lisbon). I have been making ‘dropping objects’ movements with my thumb and forefinger when I look at him (from the Snow Globe incident) and remind him he is like Mr Bean in Merry Christmas Mr Bean, when he smashes the Christmas bauble on the floor. It is all in good fun and we all agree that it’s the little mishaps we will remember the most in the years to come.

As I finish this blog, we are waiting for the washing to finish in our new digs in Bratislava. It was a quick train trip from Vienna, no one checked our tickets so could have saved ourselves some money and stress! We worked out how to buy a bus ticket from what looked like a very old ticket machine and found the bus into the city. We dragged our bags down the cobblestones and I’m pleased to say no suitcase wheels were lost! We are in the pedestrian area of Bratislava and our apartment is on the first floor, 34 steps, no lift! First impressions of Bratislava is it reminded us of Warsaw; architecture in the style of the Soviet Union. The pedestrian centre is, though, just lovely with decorative buildings and lots of places to explore. The Christmas market is just around the corner and it will be nice not to have to navigate the public transport again until we leave for Budapest on Sunday.