Athens Part II

It’s currently Friday evening – here’s an update of our last few days in Athens.

Wednesday October 9

After a few busy days, we planned a low-key day, with really just one item on the agenda: Filopappou Hill. I’ve just realised this hill bears the same name as the Main Street near our apartment (must be someone important). We caught the 227 into the city and walked to the hill. Rod was navigating (at speed) and I had to slow him down at one point to have a look at the Acropolis, visible from the end of a street. I love finding those little treasures.

The hill was the home of two significant sites: Prison of Socrates and The Pnyx.

Socrates was an old guy who would hang out in coffee shops with young people, suggesting they ‘question everything’. He wasn’t popular with the establishment, so was imprisoned and executed. The stone prison was later used to house and protect antiquities during WW2.

The Pnyx from 507 BC was the original meeting place of the Athenians where democratic discussions took place – making it important in the creation of democracy. The Pnyx (pronounced Nix) was a good spot to view the Acropolis from a different angle – it also looked like a great place for a mountain bike.

We meandered our way back into the city, through one way streets, alleys and market places. Rod, envious of our small cross body bags, purchased one from a stall. Hamish was positively starving by this stage; we found a bakery selling various pies – but not pies like we know them. The pies we purchased consisted of filling (chicken for Rod, feta and spinach for Hamish, leek for me) between filo pastry and measured about 12cm x 12cm (we can’t agree, but they were huge!). They cost just over 2 euro and were delicious – I could only manage half of mine, so wrapped it back up and bought it home for another time.

Thursday October 10

Our destination today was Aegina Island. It was a quick 40 min trip from the port of Piraeus to the island and cost 30 euro each for the return trip. This day had originally been pegged for another activity (cycling rail tour) but it was tricky to get to via various public transportation modes and the temp was set to be 31 degrees, so reluctantly we pulled the plug on this, but not until after I whined, “…this was the only thing I wan’t to do in Greece!”

We caught the bus, then the crowded, fully graffitied train to Piraeus where we sat in the wrong waiting area, in front of the wrong high speed catamaran with 3 or 4 other anxious passengers, until we suspected something wasn’t right, about 5 minutes before lift off. We still don’t have our travel brains fully engaged! A quick walk of about 300m put us in the right area and we didn’t have long to wait before we boarded.

Once in Aegina, we walked along the foreshore and then settled in a beach area with a food and drinks bar. We paid 10 euro for 2 x lounge chairs under umbrellas and it was well worth it. The water was crystal clear and inviting. The three of us relaxed there until it was time to catch the ferry home. In lieu of the hassle of the public transport, we booked an Uber and escaped the crowds.

Once home, Hamish bailed on our evening plans to find a rooftop spot to watch the sunset over the Acropolis. Rod and I found a lovely bar and had a couple of drinks and some food, whilst admiring the view and appreciating the sheer size and beauty of the Acropolis. We also received a video call from Rod’s old footy mate Jerome Percy, who now lives on a farm in Greece!

Friday October 11 – Today!

Today was an admin/housework/prep day – we head to Rome tomorrow, so there’s always a bit to organise the day before departure:

”How are we getting from Rome airport to our apartment?”

”What public transport card should we use in Rome?”

”How are we getting to Athens airport and what time do we need to leave?”

”What time is the flight again?”

We’re also trying to settle our house which has been on the market for months, so that took a big chunk of our time. Finding a post office was high on the agenda for Hamish to post one of his beloved books home (he refuses to leave it here as it’s part of a series…) fortunately it was only 9 Euro to post to his mate Jak in Milawa. The three of us had lunch in Plateia Varnava (where we had dinner the first night) and Rod headed to the Panathenaic Stadium, which he can talk about below. Hamish and I walked home via a little bakery and I marvelled at the steep streets – I would never want to park on a hill like this! At best, I’d want an auto!

Panathenaic Stadium (by Rod)

This amazing structure started life as a (horse) racecourse over 2500 years ago. It was reshaped over centuries before hosting the opening and closing ceremonies of the 1896 modern Olympic Games. It is the only stadium ever constructed entirely of marble. The first thing that struck me was its steepness. I bravely ascended to the top level and (even more bravely) peered over the upper edge, only to find dirt and trees at my eye level. The stadium has basically been built into the floor of a valley. So even though it rises over 20 metres from the track to the top, it is the pretty much at ground level. It is an awesome structure and is still the last venue in Greece for the Olympic flame in the relay/handover before it goes to the host country.

A few observations about our travels so far:

The weather has been perfect – not too hot, not too cold, not too many crowds (well, not like summer)

Once you get public transport sorted, everything is sooo much easier

Living in the local neighbourhoods is how we get a glimpse into everyday life

Apps have vastly improved since our last trip

It’s good to be our of your comfort zone

Sometimes chicken looks like ham

Thanks for following along – we’ll check in again after our long weekend in Rome.

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